The Turning 30 Comeback

Home sweet home

It is good to be back!!!
I recently had a rude awakening when I looked back at the old 8a.nu scorecard and realized that my last waltz up at Lions Head was almost 4 years ago! Where has the time gone? It seems that with getting On the Rocks off the ground, time has just merely slipped away. Poof!


But times are a changing. I think it must be the reality check of turning 30 this November, because it seems like that "I have all the time in the world feeling" has just up and left. I now feel an intense need to attack every day like it is my last, live in the now and live to the fullest. It is becoming more and more evident that you need to work your hardest to achieve your dreams. Hence, after much hard work, I have finally achieved balance again in my body. I also just received great news that my finger injury has finally healed!!!

Which brings me to where I am now. I have been training like an animal since we got back from our tradtastic voyage to Australia. I'm not talking about climbing gym training or outdoor rock training; I am talking about old school pick up some weights training. Not as simple as that, but Sarah Applegarth at Active Life has structured an incredible training program for me to enhance my climbing performance, fix imbalances and train my mechanical weaknesses. It has been a juggling act of 2 days a week of private training sessions, 2 days a week of private yoga with Laura Vanderra of Buddha Rider and 1-2 days a week of climbing locally and on the peninsula.
On top of this, I am guiding 3-4 days a week. And planning a rock climbing festival!!!

Rest is for the weak right? Phew!!

Self talk of "This will all be worth it" keeps me going right now. There will be no more plateaus in my future.



Lookout people, the sweatband is out.

Which brings me to the now. I am about 2 weeks shy of my first "peak" and I cannot wait to attack Lion's Head. So incredibly psyched. But yet so exhausted.

My second peak is going to occur in the Red River Gorge, Kentucky. We have rented an apartment there for 2 months and I can't wait to climb at the old stomping grounds again. It feels like it has been forever! So it probably has been!

Third peak is going to occur in Hueco Tanks, Texas. I had to go back there after getting robbed on my first trip when I tore a ligament in my wrist on day 4 (yet still managed to pull of my trip goal of V10 out of sheer anger!!). We have already booked our camp site there for January and part of February.

So much to look forward to! Looks like it is the year of revisiting "old friends".



Dave Zuly and myself take a moment to soak in the exposure on Dave's route "Roaming Gypsies" a classic 2 pitch 5.10+

But back to the now... I have managed to squeak up to Lion's Head a few times already this summer. You could say that I am just lining up the ducks for when I am not completely destroyed from all of this training and work. I can't believe how good I feel already despite every climbing day being 38'C. I guess climbing in that Australian heat was good training too.

Being away from LH for so long has given me an even deeper appreciation for this majestic place. I love Lion's Head more then anywhere on earth. There is something about the air there, the feeling of the rock, the movement, the energizing exposure, and the beauty that surrounds you everywhere. It is magic.




Sweatband party on the Roaming Gypsies.
Dave Z, Mike Alejandro and myself.



Kayakers play below

Next time I post, I know it will be about all of the amazing routes I am tackling!! Hopefully including but not limited to my 007 top secret project that I have stared at and dreamed of for years.

But until then, enjoy the rest of these lovely photos of one of my first days back in paradise, and in great company. I am overcome with happiness right now.... it is sooo good to be back!!!



Davey Z, Mikey A

Heaven on Earth